Monday, 9 February 2026

Using a Steady Gimbal or In-Camera Stabilisation?


Using a Steady Gimbal or In-Camera Stabilisation? 

If you want smoother video, you’ve got two main tools in your kit:

a physical gimbal or in-camera stabilisation.
Both promise steady footage — but they behave very differently in the real world.

After years of filming science experiments, lessons, sailing, family life, and the occasional slightly chaotic slipway launch, here’s how they really compare.


What a gimbal does well

A gimbal physically isolates the camera from your movement using motors and sensors.

Pros

  • Ultra-smooth motion for walking shots

  • Perfect for reveals, tracking shots, and cinematic moves

  • Keeps horizons level even when you aren’t

Cons

  • Takes time to balance and set up

  • Extra kit to charge, carry, and protect

  • Can feel overkill for quick or spontaneous filming

A gimbal shines when:

  • You know you’ll be moving a lot

  • The shot is planned

  • You want that unmistakably “cinematic glide”


What in-camera stabilisation does well

In-camera stabilisation (IBIS, digital stabilisation, or a mix) works by compensating for small movements electronically or mechanically.

Pros

  • Always available — no setup

  • Perfect for quick shots and teaching demos

  • Much lighter and less intrusive

Cons

  • Can struggle with walking or running

  • Digital stabilisation may crop the image

  • Sudden movements can still look… sudden

In-camera stabilisation shines when:

  • Filming handheld explanations

  • Shooting in tight spaces

  • You need to react fast (students, boats, wildlife…)


The “floating head” problem

One thing gimbals can introduce is the slightly unnatural floating look.
For teaching videos, science demos, and anything where realism matters, this can feel distracting rather than helpful.

Sometimes a little natural movement actually feels more human — and more watchable.


The hybrid approach (the sweet spot)

In practice, the best results often come from combining both:

  • Use in-camera stabilisation as your default

  • Add a gimbal only when movement is the point of the shot

  • Keep shutter speed sensible to avoid jitter

  • Walk smoothly — stabilisation isn’t magic (yet)

This keeps filming fast, flexible, and sane.


So… which should you use?

  • Talking, teaching, explaining? In-camera stabilisation

  • Walking shots, tours, reveals? Gimbal

  • Small crew or solo filming? In-camera wins

  • Planned cinematic shots? Gimbal earns its keep

The best stabiliser is still good shooting technique — everything else just helps.

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