Filming on a boat with 1–2 (maybe 3) 360 cameras
(aka “How to record everything… including the bit where you forgot to press record.”)
There’s a special kind of confidence that comes from mounting a 360 camera on a boat. It whispers: “Relax — you’ll capture everything.” And then, five minutes later, you discover you captured everything except the moment you actually wanted… because the lens is covered in spray, the mount is slowly drooping, and the camera is politely overheating in the sun like a tourist in Benidorm.
Still: 360 cameras are genuinely brilliant afloat. They’re the closest thing we have to a time machine for sailing videos — you can choose the shot later, follow the action, and pull out angles you didn’t even know you needed.
Here’s how I’d set up one, two, or three 360 cameras on a boat, without turning the rig into a maritime hedgehog.
1) The big idea: what story are you filming?
Before you stick cameras everywhere, decide what you want to show:
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Training / tuition: helm inputs, sail trim, crew coordination, manoeuvres, mistakes (and fixes).
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Vlog / family day: faces, reactions, “we definitely meant to do that”.
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Racing: starts, mark roundings, wind shifts, traffic, rules situations.
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Safety boat / filming boat: wider context, rescue practice, coaching perspective.
That “story” determines where cameras go. Otherwise you end up with 4 hours of beautifully stabilised… deck non-slip.
2) The golden rules (before we talk camera count)
Keep it safe and boring
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Don’t mount anything where it can snag sheets, trap a toe, or become a projectile in a capsize.
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Use tethers. Always. If it’s not tethered, it’s already on the bottom.
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Avoid blocking escape routes (especially in dinghies).
Protect the lenses (because water loves lenses)
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A tiny smear on a 360 lens becomes a full panoramic smear.
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Use lens guards if you can, and carry a microfibre cloth in a dry pocket.
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Plan “wipe moments” (before a start, after a tack, after a dunking).
Audio is half the film
On-water audio is… enthusiastic. Wind and spray will try to remix your masterpiece into a sea shanty.
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If you can, use a separate mic (even a phone in a dry bag) for narration later.
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If relying on camera audio: use wind reduction settings, and accept that your best dialogue may be “WHEEEEE” and “WHO PUT THAT BUOY THERE?”
Power and storage: plan like a pessimist
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Use big cards, format beforehand.
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If you’re filming a long session, consider external power (but keep cables tidy and waterproofed).
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Nothing ruins morale like “Storage Full” when you’ve just nailed the perfect gybe.
3) Best positions (the “invisible crew member” approach)
Think of a 360 camera as a crew member who never complains, never needs tea, and never says “are we there yet?” — but does need a good seat.
The best all-rounder: stern pole
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Great view of helm + crew + sails + wake.
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Works for dinghies and small powerboats.
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Keeps it out of the way (mostly).
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Bonus: the boat looks fast even when it isn’t.
The most useful for learning: centreline / cockpit
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Shows hands, ropes, sail trim, body movement.
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Risk: it can get kicked, soaked, or sat on by someone who swears they “didn’t see it”.
The cinematic shot: bow / forward-facing
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Gorgeous for scenery, waves, “we’re going on an adventure”.
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Less useful for sail handling unless you also capture cockpit.
The “coach view”: mast / high mount
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Fantastic overview of sail shape and manoeuvres.
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Harder to mount securely and safely.
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Check it won’t interfere with rigging, sails, or launching/recovery.
4) Setups that actually work
Setup A: One 360 camera (the “simple and sensible” option)
Mount: stern pole or high-ish aft position
Goal: capture everything, choose angles later
What you’ll get:
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Wide context of manoeuvres.
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Crew interaction.
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Decent “TV style” reframes in editing.
Tip: With one camera, keep it stable, high, and centred. A droopy pole turns your film into “found footage”.
Setup B: Two 360 cameras (the sweet spot)
If you do anything regularly (tuition, vlogging, racing), two cameras is where it starts feeling proper.
Camera 1 (main): stern pole
Camera 2 (detail): cockpit/centreline OR forward/bow
Why it’s great:
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Stern cam covers the “whole boat story”.
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Second cam gives you detail: hands, jib work, expressions, the moment someone says “I thought you had it”.
Pro tip: Synchronise with a simple method:
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Start both, then do a loud clap / tap a winch / shout something unmistakable (“MARK!” works) so you can line up audio in editing.
Setup C: Three 360 cameras (the “small film crew”)
This is for coaching days, race analysis, or “we’re making a proper episode”.
Camera 1: stern pole (overall)
Camera 2: cockpit (technique)
Camera 3: bow or mast (context / sail shape / scenery)
The danger:
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More cameras = more battery management, more wiping, more mounts, more things to forget.
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You can absolutely spend the whole day filming and forget to sail.
Best use case: when you want to teach from the footage later (or make a detailed breakdown video).
5) Settings: keep it reliable, not fancy
Without getting brand-specific, the “boat basics” are:
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Resolution: high enough for reframing (because you’ll crop a lot).
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Frame rate: 30 fps is fine for most; 60 fps helps for fast action and smoother reframes.
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Stabilisation: yes (boats wobble; the audience shouldn’t).
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Horizon lock/levelling: very helpful if your camera supports it.
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Exposure: auto is usually okay; watch out for bright water and dark faces. If you can, lock exposure once it looks good.
And please, for the love of sanity:
Do a 10-second test clip before launching.
It’s the difference between content creation and interpretive dance with a memory card.
6) Editing workflow (so it doesn’t eat your life)
360 footage is wonderful… and also enormous.
A workable workflow:
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Dump files into folders by date + camera position (Stern / Cockpit / Bow).
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Make short “selects” first (best moments).
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Reframe after you’ve chosen the story beats.
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Use on-screen labels for learning videos (“Tack: jib released late” / “Too much tiller”).
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Keep cuts tighter than you think. Water footage can be hypnotic — in the way watching a washing machine can be hypnotic.
7) Quick checklist for the slipway
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Batteries charged + spares
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Cards formatted
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Lenses cleaned + cloth packed
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Mounts tight + tethers attached
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Cameras started + recording confirmed
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Quick sync clap
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“If we capsize, nothing becomes a spear” check
Wrap-up
A single 360 camera is like having an extra pair of eyes. Two is like having a small production team. Three is like you’ve decided you’re Netflix now — which is fine, as long as you still remember to enjoy the sail.
If you want the simplest recommendation:
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Start with one stern pole camera.
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Add a cockpit camera when you want better learning footage.
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Add a bow/mast camera only when you’ve got the workflow nailed.
Because the goal is to capture the day — not to spend the day arguing with batteries.
